02

The plant that emigrated.

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02 · The Port

The plant that emigrated.

Lot
22:22 · AUH · 2027 · 02
Origin
East Haraz, Yemen
Producer
Wadi al Sallol
Variety · process
Ja'adi · anaerobic natural
House score
89+
Notes
Caramelized dates · raisins · dried fig · amaretto cherry
Roast
Medium
Met
In the room, at The Long Way Home
Engraving of terraced mountain coffee in Yemen, stone walls and a hill village
Yemen — terraces cut into the mountain, and the port below.

In the middle of the fifteenth century, Sufi communities in Yemen drank coffee to keep awake through night prayers — the earliest reliable accounts. The plant was farmed on purpose for the first time on terraces above two thousand metres, and the port of Mokha held something close to a monopoly for two centuries. Every coffee tree outside Ethiopia descends from seeds that left this coast. This lot grows in East Haraz on terraces built by hand generations before anyone else cultivated coffee anywhere. Dried whole and fermented sealed, it arrives dense and dark: dates, dried fig, something close to liqueur. The house pours it an hour's flight from the room.

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